Rugby, Gertrude Stein, and Richmond

My village away from home

Gertrude Stein once said, “America is my country and Paris is my hometown.” I feel the same way about Richmond upon Thames in southwest London.

Many people know the town thanks to the popularity of Ted Lasso. The television show follows a relentlessly optimistic college football coach—who knows nothing about soccer—hired to lead the (fictional) Richmond Greyhounds by its vengeful new owner, who is determined to tank the club. It’s a brilliant comedic setup featuring clashing personalities with opposing goals, set against the backdrop of a town as charming in real life as it is on screen.

I didn’t discover Richmond because of a TV show or even by setting out to explore southwest London—it was a happy accident (thank you, Bob Ross) in the pursuit of one life well lived and a passion for rugby. I grew up with the sport and was hooked at a young age by its mix of strategy, camaraderie, and sheer grit.

So, why Richmond?

I began regularly traveling to London fifteen years ago, scheduling my trips around rugby season and rugby internationals, booking budget stays at the Imperial College’s dorms: £22 a night for a Notting Hill room with a single bed, a shower cubicle, and a shared toilet down the hall (sadly, that deal is long gone).

At that time, Richmond was nothing more than a train station—a brief stop to change trains or catch a bus on my way to Twickenham, the home of England Rugby. But a chance encounter at a Harlequins match transformed it from just another stop into something meaningful.

When I noticed a couple behind me struggling to see the action on the field over my height, I offered to move over to an empty seat. An American rugby fan is a rarity at the Stoop, which makes people curious about how I ended up there—so conversation flows easily.

We met for a post-match drink (or two) in the grandstand pub, and kept in touch, meeting before matches for drinks or afterward for dinner. Over time, they shared their lives and hometown with me, and Richmond became a place where I felt at home. I began staying locally during my month-long visits to London.

Richmond is often referred to as one of the last villages in London, and over the past ten years, I’ve embraced village life. Whether it’s the five-minute walk to the grocery store from the pub where I rent a room or the fast train to the Old Vic Theatre in Southwark, life here feels refreshingly simple.

But it’s more than just convenience. My rugby friends introduced me to life here, and some coffee shop regulars have welcomed me into their daily rhythm, making me feel equally at home. My wife calls them my coffee klatch—a group of lifelong friends who always made room for one more at their table.

Before heading off to write each day, I typically spend an hour (or two) listening to or adding my take on topics of the day—like England’s unlikely win over France in this year’s Six Nations Rugby Tournament.

Many of those same people I’ll later encounter on the street while off to mail a script or grabbing a late lunch. Life here is a marked contrast to life at home, where everything, out of necessity, revolves around driving which all but eliminates spontaneous encounters.

I don’t even mind the English winters. Equipped with a locally purchased wool sweater that keeps the damp from settling into my bones, I take pleasure in a solitary walk through the neighborhoods or along the Thames footpath on a drizzly evening, misty halos embracing the glow of Victorian-styled street lamps, my mind unwinding to the clack on my boots on the wet pavement.

These days, Ted Lasso’s flat is marked with a blue star on Apple Maps; there are Ted Lasso tours, and even a Ted Lasso themed gift shop just off Richmond Green.

Though I’ve yet to encounter Ted Lasso on my walks, I particularly enjoyed the series not only because of Jason Sudeikis’s portrayal of the title character but also because of its setting. It’s fun spotting familiar locations, especially when my usual pub-quiz, local turns up on screen.

With Gertrude Stein’s affinity with the arts, literature, and avant-garde intellectual circles I can only surmise that she would have disliked rugby if she’d ever given it any thought. She was, however, enamored with her beloved Paris, and though many may see Richmond as a tourist destination, I see my adopted home village through the lens of growing friendships and happily call it my hometown.

That’s My Window on the World—thanks for looking in.